Reasons to judge a BBQ joint based on its brisket.

Barbecue enthusiasts across the United States love discussing the virtues of their favorite regional barbecue styles. But aside from unique specialties and sauces, what’s the best way to judge whether a barbecue restaurant excels? To gain insight, we consulted barbecue expert Robbie Shoults, a celebrity chef and third-generation owner of Bear Creek Smokehouse, as well as the owner of High Horse 1898 and the historic Marshall Mercantile.

Shoults indicated that one particular dish can quickly reveal a restaurant’s competence. “I consider brisket the holy grail of barbecue, and if they manage to smoke brisket correctly, the rest of the restaurant’s offerings should be on point,” he explained. Brisket is sourced from the front section of the cow, situated between the shanks and chuck cut. It can be bought as a full brisket or in distinct parts: the first cut (or flat cut) and the second cut, known as the deckle.

Brisket is notoriously challenging, both in texture and in preparation, with many ways to mess it up. However, Shoults asserts that if you’re at a restaurant that smokes it properly, you’ll likely notice it right away — look for a beautifully dark bark on the exterior and a pink ring around the meat, just beneath that outer layer.

Your taste buds can also indicate whether a BBQ restaurant knows how to handle brisket. Robbie Shoults suggests that a well-prepared brisket should be bursting with flavor and have a moist, tender texture. However, if you’d prefer not to pay to discover whether a restaurant meets your expectations, Shoults offers some quick tips. Just observing the exterior can provide clues: “From the outside, does the place seem to be on fire?” Shoults inquires. “A truly great barbecue joint will have smoke billowing out from somewhere!”

The absence of smoke can be a telltale sign that the food will lack that essential smoky flavor. “Another thing to watch for from the outside is a jam-packed parking lot,” Shoults adds. After all, unless it’s a major event everyone’s buzzing about, a busy parking lot at a well-established restaurant often signals quality food. If you’re headed to a BBQ truck or a small venue lacking parking, look out for long lines instead. Additionally, when deciding whether to check out a barbecue restaurant, Shoults recommends the reliable strategy of reading online reviews and ratings.

In addition to Robbie Shoults’ valuable suggestions, there are other methods to gauge if your smoked meat experience at a barbecue joint will be enjoyable. While you’re browsing for reviews online, consider visiting the restaurant’s page to examine their menu. It’s not just essential to check what options are available; you can gain significant insight into the expected quality.

Assess whether the meats and ingredients are sourced locally and if the menu primarily focuses on barbecue. If the kitchen staff is busy preparing numerous other dishes, the barbecue— which requires time and meticulous care— may not receive the attention it deserves. Generally, an establishment that concentrates mainly on perfecting smoked meats is likely a better pick.

If you find yourself in a new city or are traveling, heed Anthony Bourdain’s advice on finding restaurants: ask the locals. Whether you strike up a conversation at a bar for recommendations, browse magazines for local food critics’ insights, or hunt for buzz on social media, fellow diners can help you discover cherished barbecue spots that have smoke wafting from their roofs and brisket featuring the best dark bark.